Last Buy – APC Petit Standard & Washing Raw Denim

Not so much a ‘last buy’ post about my new pair of raw denim APC Petit Standard jeans, as a comparison between them and my now 2 year old APC New Standard jeans.

Since purchasing the New Standards around 2 years ago they’ve had pretty regular wear at least a couple of times a week, then longer periods of constant wear when I’m away and need to travel light. In that time they’ve never seen a washing machine… Yeah I know it’s gross (to anyone who isn’t into raw denim and obsessive about clobber) but it’s the only way to get your raw denim looking the dogs with amazing wear patterns unique to the wearer….

To say they’ve never been washed isn’t strictly true, after 12 months I gave them a cold soak, submerging them in cold water for 30 mins (to retain as much of the indigo dye as possible and keep the deep indigo shade), then after 18 months they were worn in the sea in Tenerife (on a crowded beach with plenty of odd looks..) and finally a month ago a soak in hot water (but never with any soap, god forbid they fade too much!).

Saltwater washing  is something I’ve wanted to try for a long time, with instructions on the denim recipe card included with every pair of APC’s ‘Let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible, go swimming in the ocean wearing your jeans, rub your jeans with dry sand, and repeat several times, rinse in fresh (not salt) water and let dry in the sun’. I have to say it isn’t something I’d recommend or try again, it stripped more of the indigo dye than I wanted, and didn’t add any contrast to the honey combs on the back of the knees or whiskers near the crotch area, just a general fading all over. Not a total disaster, but not something I’ll try again on raw denim, but at least now I know and it was fun to try!

I’m pretty pleased with how this pair is turning out, nice fades appearing where my phone sits in the left front pocket, and on the rear right pocket where I keep my wallet. I did experiment with a skate tool in the rear left pocket, but just succeeded in tearing a hole in it from the grip tape before any decent wear marks appeared.

The last two pics show my old New Standards against my new Petit Standards, both pairs are tagged size 32, though the New Standards have now stretched out nicely to my true measurement of 34. Ignore all the talk of sizing down 5-6 sizes on APC, sizing down 2 is more than adequate for a good fit…

I’ve owned every current cut of APC’s now, I love the New Standard as a looser (but far from baggy) style, though the Petit Standards are my favourite cut, being similar to the New Standards but with a lower rise and the all important taper to the leg. The difference isn’t too extreme, you can see on the last pic that when laid flat there’s only a 1 cm difference in hem width between the NS and PS cut. I didn’t personally get along with the APC New Cure cut and sold mine on soon after purchasing, I found them far too tight and didn’t like the fit or straight leg style.

For more info, pictures and discussion on APC denim look here

More pics of quality denim with great wear:

Tom Penny Overture

UK’s (if not arguably world’s) greatest Tom Penny. Always love to see new footage, effortless style that’s instantly recognisable. After a few ‘lost’ years it’s good to see he’s back on it and filming again, new full length part rumoured to be dropping in NY. Nobody skates a mini or bowl like this guy, more tricks sure, but with this style? Forget about it…

Inventory – Nigel Cabourn & Eddie Bauer

Great article in the latest Inventory mag on the recent Nigel Cabourn & Eddie Bauer collaboration, every piece I read about Cabourn just increases my admiration for the man and the garments he produces. Few top end labels can justify the price tags, not a claim you could level at any of the Cabourn garments, the quality is incredible and shines through in every detail.

As always, the latest Inventory is a great read, with articles featuring Stone Island and The Flat Head Co. Pick it up here